Making Mountains: Perito Moreno
I awoke early the following day and walked down to the bus station to catch a bus to Los Glaciares National Park, located less than two hours west of the town of El Calafate.
We didn’t get very far out of town before the landscape started to change. The once rolling hills were now climbing ever upwards and pointed, snow-covered peaks could be seen in the distance. As incredible as things began to seem in those early morning hours, they would only grow more amazing as I approached the first major sight along my journey.
We wound deeper into the mountains with the aqua blue of the seemingly endless Lago Argentino accompanying us. Maybe it was the vast and unbelievable landscape, but I began to grow increasingly pensive as we neared our destination. I marveled at the beauty around me and I began to ponder just what it is that makes something beautiful. To be sure, there is a certain awe that is inspired simply by the size of something as grand as a mountain, but what is intrinsic in an object, person or landscape that causes our eyes to be held captive by it? I was not sure, but I was sure that the things that I was witnessing were like nothing I had seen before or likely will ever see again…and this was only the beginning.
Eventually, we penetrated far enough into the park to get our first look at Perito Moreno Glacier. Seeing it from afar, I came to the realization that I was viewing antiquity incarnate. Moreover, I was witnessing an icy god at work, carving valleys, making mountains and shaping the very world on which I walked.
The first thing I did after disembarking in the park was take a catamaran across the still waters of Lago Argentino toward the south face of the glacier.
The Victoria Argentina hovers gently on Lago Argentino
The modern boat traversed the waters with ease and, as we rounded a corner and drew nearer to the frozen behemoth, with mouth agape I reminded myself that this giant was living, it was moving and yes, it was growing before my eyes. Everyone should be able to glimpse something this amazing in their lives, but alas not everyone can. Although they can hardly do it justice, I hope some of these images can give you some idea of what it might be like to stand in awe before a wonder of nature such as this.
Approaching grandeur...
Wall of wonder
The glacier, always advancing, can grow to form a natural dam of ice that divides the lake. On one side of this dam, the pressure of the water builds slowly, eventually causing the icy dam to break and the glacier to rupture. There is no way to predict when this is going to happen and the time between rupture events can be many years. As it happens, the glacier had ruptured at around 3 or 4 a.m. that morning, about 6-7 hours before I arrived. Unfortunately, I missed the rupture, but I was able to see its aftermath, a large and jagged mass of glacial ice separated from the main body of Perito Moreno.
Countless shades of blue
A fragment of awe
After returning to shore and reality, at least for a time, I took a short ride by bus to the other side of the glacier. From this side, I approached the north face of the glacier along the shores of Lago Argentino. As incredible as the glacier is, there is much more than ice to see in the park. The lake is tranquil and ringed with mountains and the sound of its frigid waters lapping lazily upon the rocks provide the perfect sonic backdrop.
El lago, the inevitable resting place of fallen glaciers
The shores of bliss
Eventually, the glacier comes into view again and the disbelief begins anew. The north face of the glacier is wider and the view from this side is different, but equally as breathtaking.
I'll follow you in. We'll die happy
Yes, it's real
You approach this face of the glacier slowly via a long set of metal stairs and platforms called the “balcony”. As you get closer, you also climb upward making the view exponentially better in a short period of time. Eventually, I was able to see the ruptured area of the glacier again, this time from the north.
The other side of amazing
Finally I reached what was more or less the top of ”the balcony”. I sat there, silently, wondering what it was I might have done in this life or any other to deserve to be there. I couldn’t think of anything. I gazed out at the massive field of ice in front of me and thanked whatever forces had brought me to this point. Emotions welled up in me that have no name. I shed a tear….maybe more than one.
Alucinante... (click this photo or any other to see them full size...its worth it)
After leaving the park, amazed, emotional and tired, I headed back to El Calafate. That evening, while relaxing in the hostel and reflecting on the things I had seen and done that day, I met a few fellow travellers who had, like me, worked up an appetite that day. I, with my newfound friends from France and Switzerland, headed out to enjoy a hot meal and a bottle of wine (or two) at a local spot called Pura Vida. The food was excellent, the wine was plentiful, and the company was interesting to say the least. It was a great end to what had been one of the most incredible days of my life. Little did I know, there was so much more to come.
The next morning, I left El Calafate and headed southwest into Chile and my next great adventure.
Amazing pictures of beautiful scenery!
March 21, 2012 at 4:10 am
Thanks! It was hard to choose which ones to put up.
March 21, 2012 at 11:35 am
freakkin amazing man, super jealous, and yet glad that i even get to share upon the sights in pictures and great words!! keep that shit up fucker!!
March 21, 2012 at 7:15 am
Thanks man! there is more where that came from.
March 21, 2012 at 11:36 am
Bitchin just bitchen.
March 21, 2012 at 12:24 pm
Totally!!
March 21, 2012 at 1:21 pm
Once again I sit in front of my computer screen to behold what you are experiencing and once again I am amazed at the quality of your experience, but even more at the quality of what and how you write about it. You definitely have a calling in writing some amazingly creative pieces. Charge on. . . . waiting for the next entry. I am anxious to see the sunrise!
March 21, 2012 at 5:42 pm
I find myself breathless as I await the etchings in my mind from the words you have so eloquently penned to bring us to the places you have been on your El Solo Americano adventures! You are truly witnessing, first hand, the magnificent, breath taking, awesome beauty that is God’s creation. Nothing this amazing could ever possibly be a “Coincidence” or random fluke of an accident of “nature”. Drink it in, Dylan, you are seeing things very few people in this world can even imagine, let alone experience in real time. I too, was brought to tears as we experienced Alaska and there is no shame in that feeling deep in your gut when you can no longer keep your emotions in check. HOORAY for you and I can hardly wait for the next post. I LOVE you, D-Man…..praying for your safety and good health…God Speed!!!!
March 21, 2012 at 8:58 pm
Thank you so much! When I have faltered, I have borrowed from your strength, and it has been instrumental in bringing me to where I am. I love you!!!
March 21, 2012 at 9:09 pm
You don’t know me but I work with your momma. I am loving following your posts and your descriptions make me feel like I am there right beside you. Our family is lifting you up in prayer as you go through this awe inspiring journey. Real proud of you!!
March 21, 2012 at 10:14 pm
Thank you!! Even if I don’t know you, your support is always welcome. I hope you get some small amount of satisfaction from what you read here. Cheers!
March 21, 2012 at 10:57 pm
Wow, Dylan! Don’t stop writing…..Incredible what you’re doing and seeing. In the pic of the fragment, at the bottom of what looks like a big comma, the ice takes the shape of a man wearing a hat. Check it out!
What a gift you’ve been given in this trip! LOVE…IT!
March 21, 2012 at 11:00 pm
Thank you so much!! I will have to look at the pic again.
March 21, 2012 at 11:25 pm
I can SEE it, Traci, it REALLY does look like a little old man in a hat………VERY observant of you and, D, look at all the things you are bringing your homebound family that you had NO idea you could bring us…….We Are EASILY Entertained!!!!
March 22, 2012 at 1:34 am
wow. i am playing catch up on some of your posts. your words and pictures brought tears to my eyes. i am so happy you are experiencing such beauty!
April 24, 2012 at 12:43 am
Thanks!!! I received a bunch of questions about life here from everyone, half of them from you guys!! I will be writing my fingers to the bone to try and answer them all ASAFP.
April 24, 2012 at 2:06 am